I spent seven nights at Casa
Mojanda, www.casamojanda.com,
and plan to return. At 9700 feet on the outskirts of Otavalo, this
eco-tourist resort offers guests a pleasant, gracious and welcoming experience.
They grow their own organic food and filter their own water. Most of our
group are vegetarians; the kitchen went to extremes to be accommodating with
their menus.
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David
Kotok
Horse Back Riding
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Casa Mojanda can arrange tours in the
region, organize a hike to the nearby waterfall or provide horse back riding at
most times during the day. Believe me, an Andean sunrise from atop a
horse when the sun comes up in a clear sky---this is a majestic sight to behold.
Co-owner Wayne Lamphier will even direct you and your fly rod to a little trout
fishing at Laguna Mojanda. This lake is stocked and was formed from
snow melt and rain flowing into this extinct volcano's 11,500 foot high caldera.
They will get you a Spanish tutor if you wish or just leave you alone to walk
around and relax and read and think while viewing unusual and beautiful
countryside.
Casa Mojanda can meet most of the needs
you can imagine during a visit to this wonderful highland region in Ecuador.
All this for about $50 per person per day that includes breakfast and dinner.
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| Otavalo's
Famous Market
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Nearby Otavalo's famous market is open everyday. Try to be there on a
Saturday when the whole town becomes the marketplace for indigenous craft
presentations, ponchos, carpets, weavings, food, etc. Go early
and visit the animal market which starts at 4:00 am and is finished by
7:30. Saturday in Otavalo is an exiting day. There are several
good places to eat in town and many things to see, hear and smell.
While
touring this region visit Hacienda Pinsaqui www.haciendapinsaqui.com.
It dates to the 1700's. Ask owner Pedro Freile or Manager Hector
Alarcom to show you the suite which Simon Bolivar used.
Linger a few moments to examine the furnishings. This family owned
hacienda and has housed Ecuador's Ambassadors to five different countries. There are sixteen
magnificent rooms; stay a night or two if you can.
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Cotacachi
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In this region take a daytrip to
Cotacachi and view one of Ecuador's dramatic volcanic structures.
There are 56 volcanoes in Ecuador. Also visit some of the 200
leather shops in the town. We met people in Cotacachi who traveled there
from all over the world to buy saddles and other leather goods. They
said that the savings on leather goods were enough to pay for their entire trip
and then some. In Cotacachi, a pleasant lunch may be had in the courtyard
of Hosteria el Meson de las Flores. Stay there if you wish a hotel in the
old town. A clean and pleasant room is $25 a night, about $35
a night for a suite. Lunch for nine people, in the courtyard, nicely
prepared, tasty and in this scenic setting cost me $45 with gratuity and taxes
There are twenty-two villages in the
Otavalo area which specialize in one or another type of Indian craft.
Miguel Mora, email: zulaytur@hotmail.com,
is involved with the Zulaytur guiding service www.otavalo.com.ec/zulaytur.
He spent two days showing us around.
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Carlos
Torres
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Miguel will take you to visit craftsmen
in their homes and villages. You can learn about the political
structure of village life and will certainly end up buying some of the goods.
End the day after a broadening experience, tired and changed by watching
families of eight and ten people sustain themselves at income levels of two or
three hundred dollars per month while maintaining their commitment to the
"old ways."
Miguel Mora knows the Imbabura province
like the back of his hand. For years he has helped many of the indigenous
in their marketing efforts. His English is superb; the local
populace receives him as a friend and confidant. He will take
you to the village of Laesperansa where weavers use paqua cactus fiber to create
strands with techniques that haven't changed in decades. He'll show you
the wood carvings in San Antonio and the knitting in Carabuela and introduce you
to a Chaman in Eluman.
The week around Otavalo was a
wonderful adventure. The bright morning sun greets you at 6 am.
A clear sky over the Andes reveals vistas of green and not so distant snow
covered volcanic peaks. People are warm and friendly.
Otavalo, Cotacachi, Quito, all of
Ecuador is now a fully dollarized country and undergoing marvelous and
fascinating transition. It's a place where one can view a jump from the
19th to the 21st century. I'm headed back for another look as soon
as possible.
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